No live animals as gifts for the holidays?
What can I give to my fellow pet lovers?
Training classes at a local business you’ve checked out ahead of time
Books, DVDs, magazine subscriptions—for adults and for children
Visits to a local zoo or wildlife rescue with photos of the fun you have
Dogs—beds, bowls, leashes, collars or harnesses, crates, toys
Cats—beds, bowls, scratching posts, climbing trees, litter boxes
Ferrets—cage accessories, beds, hammocks, tubes and tunnels
Birds—cage accessories, perches, chew toys, interactive toys
Treats—seasonal, home-made, mixes, cookie cutters, containers
Food—supplements, frozen raw, canned, kibble, special mixes
Care—grooming equipment, trip to the groomer, grooming products
Kids—walking well-behaved dog, drop-in visits during owner’s [...]
First and foremost, your pet should have a microchip—it’s the only ID that can’t be lost. (Tattoos were used by breeders and rescues before microchips became widely available, but they’re used very rarely now that microchips are so popular and easy to get.) Once microchipped, your pet can be identified by any veterinary clinic or animal control officer with a microchip reader. Your job is to update the information on file with your pet’s microchip registry if you move or get a new phone number. In most areas, if your pet is lost, with a microchip she can be identified . . . eventually. [...]
Find the class you want before you need it.
This is especially true for puppy classes, which are time-critical: your puppy should be in class long before she is six months of age. In fact, she should start class as soon as your veterinarian okays it, usually after a well-puppy checkup and age-appropriate vaccinations.
Puppy classes that are good attract crowds. You don’t want to miss out on that critical development period for your new pup just because you failed to register on time!
Once you decide to start looking for a puppy—or an adult dog—start searching for the right class. In fact, [...]